Engraving Metals: With Numerous Engravings and Diagrams by Unknown

Author:Unknown
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: D. McKay
Published: 1912-03-25T05:00:00+00:00

Fig. 94.--Steel Plate set out.

deep cut. Each curve or line may, however, be re-cut while in position, the principal object being to secure uniformity in depth of cut.

In many cases the design of such a piece of work will be a repetition of the half section reversed, and joined together on the sectional line, forming the complete design of one side of the teapot. To obtain the full section of the ornament, take a black print as described on p. 57, and rub this down on a piece of damp paper, using this second print from which to rub down the reversed design in the place where it is wanted. The designs are now pointed in with the tracing point, and afterwards cut with the graver as before advised. When the whole of the section is outlined, another black print may be G

taken and laid down on the other sectional line, having strict regard to the height of the ornament in the other section.

With regard to hair-lining, shading, and finishing, little can be said here, as so much depends on the style of ornament selected for the enrichment of the plate. Few styles look better than the ordinary scroU, interspersed with floral ornament. And in the case of scroll-work, a portion—^not too much—of the groundwork should be either blacked out, or chequered, or cross-hatched. Both these processes are difficult to do well on steel by hand, and should therefore be done by machine. In the shading of the scrolls, cross-shading is quite inadmissible, as it looks ineffective when re-rolled; therefore, the scroll-heads and leaves are better shaded so that the shading runs in a line with the contour of the ornament, the remainder of the hair lines and thickening cuts, and the general finish of the work, being the same as for silver engraving.

In the engraving of the lines of the top and bottom borders, the two lines between which the ornamental work is to be engraved should be cut quite lightly. These light lines render the work of cutting the ornament more easy than if they were deeply cut, as the tendency of the graver is to faU into the deeper cuts when turning a scroll-head or other rounded ornament; these lines may be deepened afterwards. The outermost lines may be engraved as boldly as the mass of ornament in the centre of the plate.

Dependent upon the nature of the metal to be rolled, the engraved plate may or may not require to be hardened, and subsequently tempered. For hardening the plate, an iron box with close-fitting lid or it« equivalent, a supply of ivory dust or ivory turnings, and a forge fire supplied with bellows must be obtained. The engraved plate first is put into a warm place to " sweat" out the moisture, any damp-

ness being carefully wiped away. Then place the ivory dust in the box, and blow up the fire until the dust is converted into charcoal, frequently stirring up the contents of the box to get rid of even a trace of dampness.

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